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Ever use urea
The problem with urea or any other high ammoniacal fertilizer is that NH4 is largely not used by plants. Only the NH3 is rapidly used and absorbed by the plants system. A bacterial conversion of the NH4 to NH3 is required. A rudimentary chmeical equation shows that it leaves a H atom free in the process, which bond to Carbon in the soil which every one knows forms acids. Acidic soil is not nice to root systems. They tend to destroy and maim other wise health-destined plants. Volitization occurs in these high ammonia fertilizers. Also N leaches readily from the soil because of its negative charge, which means much of the "HIGH" N content is lost and never recovered in the first rain storm. These fertilizers tend to quite working in cool temperatures as well due to the fact that the converting bacteria slow down around 60 degrees F. Examples of High NH4 fertilizers: Urea,DAP, Ammonia Nitrate.
Look for HIGH NH3 fertilizers. These fertilizers will not contribute to soil acidity. They also will work in cooler weather because the form of N is readily absorbed by the plant. Products they do not leach and usually have other valuable minerals attatched to nourish the plants. Examples: Calcium Nitrate, Sodium Nitrate (aka soda, bulldog soda). Especially in the use of calcium nitrate, it improves sturdiness of plants because calcium is used in cell wall construction. Plants will be sturdy and green. Ammoniacal fertilizers can lead plants weak and leggy although they will be green. Calcium nitrate typically is around 16% nitrogen, but is as effective as ammonia nitrate at growing green plants. Especially effective for calcium consuming plants such as collards, turnips, peppers, mustard, spinach, brocolli, tobacco, and yes, grass. Remember, much of the ammonia is leached any way before it can be converted to NH3. Although not as easy to be found, most feed and seed stores can order calcium nitrate and have within a week. Sodium nitrate is similar in greenability but not quite as desirable because plants typically consume only small amounts of sodium and leave left over salt in the soil. Works great on corn!
Grass typically consumes fertilizer in a 4-1-2 (N,P,K) ratio. This makes a 16-4-8 fertilizer great for grass for starter and spring green up. A 1-2-3 (5-10-15) ratio is best however for root growth in the late summer and early fall(pre frost). Other ratio fertilizers on grass are pretty much wasted and may promote rapid growth of undesirable weeds because other plants use different ratios of fertiliizers.
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Ever use urea
With due respect to Doc, soil testing for nitrogen content is not recommended because the results will be irrevelent, mainly for two reasons: Nitrogen leaches quickly, varying in amount available from week to week, depending on rain, weather, temperature and various other complicated factors. The second reason is that all plants consume nitrogen in different ratios from species to species and family to family. The only way to "know" exactly is to do tissue analysis of plant tissue. This tests exactly what levels are present in the plant. These levels have been quantified and are as detailed as complete blood work on a human. However, why waste $30 on tissue sampling when a good eye, common sense and a little research will give you a satisfactory result. Over fertilization is rarely a problem, especially in backfilled or longterm bare soil areas. Unless the grass is for a turf farm or some critical other area, sampling doesn't pay. But if course, if the Einstein side of you can't resist the accumalation of undigestible facts, go for it. But unless you have acquired extensive training in the basics of plant science, it would be hard to put into application the facts that are spewed forth by any type of scientific sampling.
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I think that we may still be on the same page. In large, commercial production areas whether it be hay, turf, row crop, or commodity production on many acres, definately it helps and is required. However, I was referring to a small area that is non commercial in nature making no economic sense to soil test. There are general guidelines for fertization and establishment of grass that are published by many cooperative extension offices throughout the country. In fact I live in the town that is responsible for developing 90% of all bermuda and southern turf grasses in the US. As a student studying plant science here, I worked for the experiment station here, learning much from the gurus and futher developing my knowledge in agronomy classes. I have soil tested hundreds of times in my experience. I use it and have profitted from it. Tissue sampling as well. However, Billy, standard soil tests do not provide N information because as you said, it washes away. A soil test cannot accurately assess Nitrogen levels in the soil because it is so highly mobile. The reasons for soil testing have nothing to do with monitoring for overfertilization but for just the opposite, monitoring defeciencies. In fact the truth is that the nutrients that can be monitored accurately by soil testing are relatively stable and immobile in the soil, able to build up without significant leaching. The only time P and K move significantly through the soil is if the soil washes with it. This is largely true for the secondary and micronutrients in the majority of the soil classifications found in North America.
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Well, I think I understand your point Doc. But I have seen people get these tests back and freak because all of their readings don't peg the scale. The truth is in this case a little knowledge puffs up. Interpreting scientific data in these cases is not absolute. There are recommendations that are made in the reports that must be applied sometimes in various ways not up to a new comer.
Also, lets just think about the inexperience of someone pulling soil samples. Many people pull a plug of soil from one problem spot and put it in a bag. NOT a good thing to do for good results. The correct method assumes that one sample bag is representative of several acres. This means that a sample must be random and in several locations per acre. Then samples must be mixed thoroughly in a bucket and then and only then should the representative sample be drawn for the bucket and placed in a bag. OH, lets not forget the possibility of cross contamination of a sample by using a galvanized container(ZN and Fe) or one possibly that previously held fertilizer or in some cases manure. Think about it. Small timers would benefit from advice and gentle experience than face the challenge of performing a test like this and then be left to figure out its practical applications.
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